blog bryant: November 2007

Before coming to Mexico my plan was to see as much of the country as possible. I wanted to understand better not only its geographic complexity but more importantly I wanted to get to know its diverse people better. My research has facilitated this. In addition to crunching numbers, reading, and writing in a cubicle here in the city, at the Instituto Nacional para la Evaluacion de la Educacion, I am able to visit three primary schools on a regular basis--one in the state of Puebla, one in Morelos, and the other here in Mexico City. During these visits I collect information about various features that contribute to the literacy development of third-grade students. So far I have observed in classrooms, talked with children, followed them throughout their school day, and I've interviewed parents, principals, and teachers. Because the schools and socioeconomic conditions between them are so different, children's learning opportunities are as well. The point of the research is to highlight important differences/similarities in learning outcomes and opportunities between school types in Mexico--private, morning public, and afternoon public schools.

The morning public school is in a small town called Xalizintla. The first time I went there I was accompanied by a friend of a friend who works at the secondary school there, but lives in Puebla (City), the state capital. He introduced me to the principal, teachers, and some of the children at the elementary school in Xalizintla. They were curious about what would bring a gringo all this way to their town, but were also very cordial and accommodating. After explaining my project to them, they committed their support to me throughout the rest of the school year to carry out my project.

There are very obvious differences between small towns like these and urban sectors, like the one I live in. The first thing I noticed was the tranquility, and the beautiful cathedral in the center of town. On my first visit, a fair celebrating the life of a famous saint (I believe it was San Miguel) had been held only a few days prior, and hundreds of colorful flags streaming from the top of the cathedral all the way to the ground were an inviting welcome.

I am trying to get to know the town and its history a bit better. From what I have been told Xalizintla has experienced a great deal of outward migration over the past 15 years or so. I haven't seen many men in the streets as with other areas. Many of those I do see are older, and many are drunk. I guess alcoholism has been a problem. Many women take care of the children and grandchildren while the fathers, grandfathers, or other family members live as migrant workers in urban areas of Mexico or in the United States. Often they send home remittances to provide for their families. This money is also used to build local infrastructure.

Xalizintla's "exodus" is apparent in the elementary school. The school grounds are relatively large (compared to others I've seen), but there are now classrooms unused, and the afternoon school shift (or turno vespertino, where children attend school on the same grounds from 2-7 pm instead of the morning) had to close 8-9 years ago because there weren't enough children to meet enrollment demands. To date, the average class size in Xalizintla is 25 children or so while the norm in urban public schools is 40-45, and often more.

Many of the children at this school live in very difficult economic circumstances. It is made obvious by the condition of their clothes. Yet they are happy, and alive in every sense of the word. Historical trends suggest that less than half will finish secondary school, and a vast majority won't complete high school--la preparatoria. Some won't complete all six years of elementary school. Yet by their general mood and the way they openly engage me in discussion I don't sense them to be cynical or discouraged. The appear very happy and comfortable at school. They love life and are quite engaging. I am excited to learn more about their daily lives during this school year, and how schooling and learning are (and can be) linked with a broader array of life opportunities for them and their posterity.

During my first visit to Xalizintla, the community president, between his tequila sipping, told me about an alternative route from Mexico City. Instead of driving through Puebla City, I could cut between Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl (two well-known volcanoes, also known as Gregorio and Rosita, respectively) using a dirt road. This is now my preferred route. I leave my Mexico City apartment around 6 am and drive through Chalco, Amecameca, and then on a windy, paved road to the peak between the volcanoes, called Paso de Cortés. From there it is all dirt road--or terracería--until arriving to Xalizintla. My first time through I got a little lost and came upon a quaint vacation spot in the mountains--a beautiful place in the forest called Buena Vista. I've been to Xalizintla three times now and have taken some pics during the drive. Here are some of them...

Between Amecameca and Paso de Cortés